Mai-Kai, the legendary Fort Lauderdale Polynesian dinner theater, restaurant, and Tiki lounge, is an official landmark.
Seriously, it was opened in 1956 by Bob and Jack Thornton for a cost of $350,000 ($4 million+ in today’s dollars) at the height of America’s interest in “Polynesia,” just as Hawaii was being granted statehood. In 2014, it was officially listed in The National Register of Historic Places as a “heritage establishment associated with events that have made a significant contribution to the broad patterns of our history.” It was run by the Thorton family for 67 years and was beginning to show its age. After a double hit of a burst water main in the kitchen, followed by two ferocious storms, it was closed in 2020 as the family struggled to save their family legacy.
Investor Bill Fuller, who came in to partner with the family, because he shared their vision to restore Mai-Kai’s retro feel and original vision, said in an interview at that time, “I remember visiting Mai-Kai as a child, teen and adult, each time more memorable than the last. Partnering with the Thornton family on the restoration of Mai-Kai isn’t just business for me, it's a passion. I’m here to honor the family’s hard work preparing Mai-Kai for the next generation of guests … never losing sight of what they have created back in 1956. Each guest that walks through the door will feel the energy that Bob and Jack Thornton originally created.”
It was an arduous process that took more than four years to complete, partly because of its landmark status. A separate outbuilding that had been condemned had to be torn down, and that required a lot of jumping through bureaucratic hoops. What took its place is a larger parking entrance and an outside lanai bar where folks can relax while waiting for their tables, and it all feels as if it’s been there since 1956. That’s due to the expertise of Tom Allsmiller and a talented team of artisans. In addition to the lanai, tiki devotees will find eight themed rooms in the 26,000-square-foot space accommodating nearly 500 people, with dining areas named for South Seas islands, a gift shop, meeting/banquet facilities, and a tropical garden. All but the Samoa and Tahiti room offer a view of the stage where Entertainment Director Teuruhei Buchin has created a 45-minute review reflecting the music and culture of the islands, interpreting ancient stories through the use of authentic music, dance, original costumes, and artifacts.
The Samoa and Tahiti rooms overlook the waterfalls and gardens for a leisurely non-show experience. That is where we chose to dine. With all the show and décor, the food at Mai-Kai doesn’t need to be very good. Most folks are coming for the exotic cocktails and the kitschy décor, the food is secondary. To Mai-Kai’s credit, most of the dishes are quite good, if you stay away from the touristy items. For example, the Pupu Platter, a tourist favorite, offers an assortment of appetizers including Shanghai Chicken, Pork and Snow Crab Egg Roll, Cheese Tangs, and Crab Rangoon. The chicken was a piece of unseasoned chicken breast wrapped in bacon. It was flavorless unless dipped in one of the three accompanying sauces, Thai sweet chili, mustard, or hoisin. The egg roll was mushy, and I detected no crab. Cheese Tangs are cassava dough fried with a bit of warm cheese inside, also tasteless without a dipping sauce. The Crab Rangoon were hot and crispy but skimpy on filling and had no crab flavor at all. However, the tuna wontons we ordered as a separate appetizer, provided three large squares of fried pasta topped with fresh diced raw tuna and pickled veggies, were delicious.
I decided to try one of the large Polynesian cocktails, the Pina Passion. It’s pricey ($27), but served in a whole pineapple, and there was more than I could finish. My hubby does not drink and was happy to see that they had fancy mocktails as well. He ordered the Island Queen Colada (no jokes, please!) Our adorable waiter, with his dimpled smile, asked him if he wanted it served in a pineapple. My husband agreed. What we weren’t told was that there is a $10 upcharge! Our friend Ed ordered a soft drink, which was refilled throughout the night, no extra charge.
The entrées we ordered were all knockouts. My hubby loves spicy food and is a vegetarian, so he was thrilled to see Kimchi Fried Rice on the menu. Fragrant and fresh with cilantro, scallions, and sesame seeds, and topped with a fried egg, the huge portion provided enough for dinner, and a meal the next day. Our friend Ed tried the Smoked Beef Rice Pot. Dashi, scallions, mint and crispy shallots were intermingled with cubes of tender, smoked beef brisket. He gave me a taste, and the beef practically melted on my tongue. I’d been craving meat (I do live with a vegetarian), so I ordered the Hawaiian Rib-eye. It was priced a little higher than what I would usually order for dinner, but as our waiter pointed out, it was 14 ounces! When it arrived, I thought, “What have I done? I’ll never be able to finish this!” The rib-eye was perfectly prepared to my medium-rare order, had only a bit of a fatty portion, and was served atop a bed of carrot purée that only my mother’s good training kept me from picking up the plate to lick dry. I took a little more than half the steak home for a meal the next day, and even when warmed up to medium, it was still tender and delicious.
The three of us split a dessert, a very good Key Lime Tart, placed upon an awful swoosh of what appeared to be grape jelly. For the three of us with one cocktail, one mocktail and a soda, three entrées and three apps (the Pupu Platter is for two) and one dessert, the bill was $219. If you decide to see the show, that will add about $25 per person, depending on the date and time. So, Mai-Kai isn’t cheap, but for a special event (and many people there seemed to be celebrating one) you get good value for your dollar. An 18% gratuity is included in your bill, but of course, you can always add more if service was exceptional – remember those servers have to share their tips with bartenders and busboys.
Mai-Kai
3599 N. Federal Hwy, Fort Lauderdale
954-563-3272
maikai.com
