The Modern Rose was recommended to us by our friend Doreen, who one might refer to as a “customer with high standards.” So, when she raved about a place, we thought we had to try it. We were meeting our friends James and Ricky and James’ niece Alexis for Sunday brunch. The Modern Rose has been voted the top brunch spot by numerous websites and publications, so our hopes were high.
We did not expect to find a tiny dining room with only one large table, already occupied by two people. A bit of exploration led us to another room with a large table, where a single person was working on his laptop. With plenty of smaller tables open, I politely asked if he wouldn’t mind switching so our group of five could sit together. After an unpleasant back-and-forth, he finally agreed to move. I offered to buy him a coffee as a gesture, but he snapped, “No, thank you!” Though the restaurant staff wasn’t at fault, the awkward layout detracted from overall experience (more on that later).
Now that we had a table, we could look at the extensive menu and order. There are breakfast “Sammies,” such as the Modern Egg Sandwich, which features slices of herb-grilled Tuscan bread with melted muenster and mozzarella cheeses, topped with two jumbo fried eggs, fresh basil, pesto, tomato, and cheese. For those seeking a classic breakfast combo, Pumpcreme French Toast has three French toast squares layered with pumpkin cream cheese, topped with whipped cream and pumpkin spice, and served with scrambled eggs with bacon.
One of the more unusual offerings is Modern Egg Pizza. Muenster and mozzarella, two fried eggs, basil, pesto, tomato, prosciutto & balsamic glaze on naan. If you’re a fan of avocado toast there are plenty of variations. I loved the Some Like It Spicy, which is basically Mexican street corn on top of mashed avocado on grilled Tuscan bread. Omelets are available, with everything from a simple four-cheese to the Fit Bit, which is stuffed with chicken, kale, roasted red pepper, and avocado.
The food was universally delicious and reasonably priced, but the restaurant setup left much to be desired. Aside from the seating issue, there was the matter of ordering. Once we had our table, to hold on to it, we had to go up to the counter and order in groups. This meant that when our food came, it came in shifts, as did our beverages. My churro cold brew arrived 20 minutes before my entrée. My husband’s omelet didn’t arrive until the rest of us were finished eating. I don’t think I’d go back.
The food was good, but not good enough to put up with such chaos. Modern Rose also has locations in Deerfield Beach and Hollywood and is opening a fourth location in Delray soon.
Modern Rose
911 NE 20th Ave., Fort Lauderdale
954-900-4486
themodernrose.com
Mai-Kai Re-Open
Mai-Kai Restaurant reopened on Nov. 1 after a $17.5 million renovation. Opening night began at 3 p.m. with a ceremonial Polynesian dance, flower lei-cutting and a torch-passing ceremony, which symbolized the Mai-Kai’s long-time owners, the Thorton family, gaining a business partner, and gaining new business partners in Bill Fuller’s outfit, Mad Room Hospitality.
Four years ago, a burst kitchen sprinkler pipe wrecked the restaurant’s roof and left its longtime owners, the Thorntons, with a massive repair bill they couldn’t afford. They were approached by many developers who wanted the property and would tear the beloved tiki restaurant down. Fuller was the only developer who wanted to restore the building and business. The renovated restaurant will seat nearly 500. The restaurant has been a Polynesian haven since the brothers Bob and Jack Thornton opened it on Dec. 28, 1956, on a then-desolate stretch of Federal Highway. In 2014, the restaurant was added to the National Register of Historic places.
