Although we sometimes tend to forget it, Florida is a part of the deep South.
Although Miami seems more like part of South America and Fort Lauderdale can feel like one of New York City’s boroughs, southern cooking is alive and well down here, if you know where to look. Just a head a bit north, to downtown Pompano Beach for a relative newcomer, South. Opened about a year ago, it has already developed quite a following for its contemporary take on upscale, modern Southern cuisine with heavy Louisiana influences, tantalizingly infusing Cajun and Creole flavors. Helping to revitalize downtown Pompano Beach, its inviting patio brings people together with a centerpiece tree adorned with sparkling lights. There’s also plenty of comfy indoor seating with friendly and efficient service if our server Phoenix is any indication. She made us feel as if we were special guests in her home, guiding us through the menu.
Start with one of the appetizers, listed as “Hankerins.” We began with deviled eggs; Cajun whipped yolks, smoked trout roe, chicken cracklings, and green onions. They left the cracklings off at our request as we had a vegetarian dining with us. And the eggs were delightful; dyed pink and just spicy enough. Although I found the filling a bit runny and, at $14 for four half eggs, a bit pricey. Blue crab beignets were mostly crab and mascarpone cheese, with just enough batter to hold the airy confections together. The fritters melted in our mouths, and the Creole mustard sauce served alongside could double as a soup. This dish was also $14; but given the higher-end ingredients didn’t seem overpriced. Other starter options include chilé glazed spare ribs, smoked beef carpaccio, fresh baked buttermilk biscuits with pepper jelly, boudin rolls, pimento cheese, fried chicken, gumbo, smoked fish dip, seared tuna, and beer and bacon mussels.
Salad options include mixed greens, burrata, Caesar, The Southerner (shredded romaine, pickled okra, heirloom cherry tomatoes, spiced hominy, roasted red peppers, red onion, crushed olives, shaved celery, pepper jack, & red wine vinaigrette), and the Georgia (farro, blueberries, arugula, goat cheese, crushed roasted peanuts, & peach vinaigrette) any of which can be topped with grilled or fried chicken, shrimp, steak, or salmon 11.
Entrées run the gamut from an 8 oz. filet for $54, or 12 oz. NY strip steak for $48, to South's “Miso Power Bowl” with a choice of Faroe Island salmon or grilled portobello mushroom, quinoa, napa cabbage, shiitake mushrooms, roasted red peppers, edamame, shishito peppers for $24, to grilled fish of the day or fried chicken. Our friend Jeff got the grits which come topped with either shrimp or, his choice, braised short ribs. A hearty meal either way. I opted for the grilled bone-in double pork chop. It came with two sides. I went for the traditional sweet potato mash, but instead of collards, I decided to try a side of The Southerner salad, and the strong vinaigrette perfectly offset the juicy pork chop. The entrée and side portion were both so large I ended up taking home half of both. Other options for main dishes include Cajun crawfish in cream sauce over noodles, or blackened chicken, with farfalle pasta.
Gregg and Mark both had the shrimp Po’boy, topped with a generous portion of large fried shrimp on a soft chewy roll. Gregg opted for fries as his side, Mark went for the freshly made sweet potato chips, and both were served in generous portions. Other hand-held options, all in the $18-$21 range, include a fresh fish of the day sandwich, double dipped fried chicken breast, a classic cheeseburger, a pimento cheeseburger, or “That's the Jam,” a burger topped with candied bacon jam, cheese, roasted garlic mayo, and arugula. All come with either fries or chips. Other side options include red beans and rice, sweet potato casserole, jalapeno macaroni and cheese, and sauteed green beans.
In addition to a full bar (the French 75 and espresso martini are especially good), there is also a selection of mocktails including a pink lemonade and an ube and coconut confection that is delightful. The desserts, all Southern charmers, were too tempting to pass up. The banana pudding parfait, served in a Mason jar, combines house-made vanilla wafer cookies, banana pudding, and meringue, and arrives topped with fresh whipped cream. A fresh baked chocolate pecan brownie is served topped with homemade vanilla ice cream. Both were yummy, but so rich we couldn’t finish them, even though we were sharing just two desserts. There’s also the quint-essential strawberry shortcake, and I want to go back and try the not-so-Southern New York-style cheesecake because I am intrigued by the crust made from Ritz crackers.
For down-home food, there can be a bit of a sticker shock. It was $250 for four of us, not counting tip, but that included a couple of cocktails and appetizers, and two of us had higher-end entrées. By ordering judiciously and avoiding cocktails, you can easily keep the bill below $100 a couple, tip included.
South Bar & Kitchen
165 NE 1st Ave, Pompano Beach
954-890-2000
southpmp.com
