I’ll start with a confession: I’ve been a fan of Maggiano’s since its inception. I was one of the first journalists to review its original Chicago location in 1991. Even then, it was clear this place was something special, like returning to my grandmother’s kitchen for a homemade meal. That is, if my grandmother were Italian — and if she could cook.

Within a few years, Maggiano’s Little Italy expanded across Chicago before being acquired by Brinker International (which also owns Chili’s) in 1995. The brand grew nationwide. From its thoughtful preparation to its generous portions, dining there truly feels like a visit to Nonna’s for Sunday dinner. So, when I discovered a South Florida location — one of 52 nationwide — I eagerly jumped at the chance to review it. As we entered, I felt like I was attending a high school reunion, revisiting an old crush. Would it live up to my expectations? Had its charm faded with corporate expansion?

I’m thrilled to report that not only does Maggiano’s meet expectations, but it surpasses them. The service remains top-notch — attentive but never overbearing — with a genuine effort to make our experience exceptional. Each dish was masterfully prepared, and the portions were enormous (we left with two shopping bags of leftovers).

My husband Gregg and I dined with our longtime (she requested I avoid calling her “old”) friend, Lynn Lavner, whom some may remember from the gay cabaret and women’s music scene. Incidentally, Lynn may be the only performer to grace both women’s festivals and International Mr. Leather!

We indulged a bit too much in appetizers. The antipasto board for two (minimum of $9 per person) was easily enough for four. It included truffle-and-honey-whipped ricotta, prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, Genoa salami, Parmesan, house-marinated Calabrian olives, and thick slices of toasted Tuscan bread. We also ordered the stuffed mushrooms — six large caps filled with Parmesan breadcrumbs, simmered in a garlic and white wine sauce. Gregg doesn’t eat cooked mushrooms, so we opted for crispy mozzarella: four patties the size of fish fillets, perfectly breaded and fried, served with a marinara dipping sauce.

Before realizing the portion sizes, we had also decided to split a Caesar salad. Some may find it overdressed, but for me, it was just right — a little wilted, packed with anchovies, and finished with crunchy croutons.

For entrées, Gregg’s rigatoni alla vodka was perfectly al dente, with a slightly spicy sauce that clung beautifully to the pasta. Lynn’s veal Parmesan was Flintstones-sized — a large bone-in chop presented on a cutting board, topped with mozzarella and marinara. Our excellent server, Emmanuel, used a pizza cutter to slice it into manageable portions.

My lobster carbonara was so hot it doubled as a facial. Once cooled, the lobster was tender, the bacon crisp, the pasta toothsome yet yielding, and the creamy sauce delightful.

Since we were here for a review, dessert was a must. We each sampled our favorites: Gregg’s crème brûlée (which, in keeping with the theme, was Frisbee-sized), Lynn’s New York-style cheesecake (worthy of Lindy’s), and my rich, dark chocolate layer cake. Lynn enjoyed a Grey Goose gimlet before dinner, and I had a Negroni. I love the giant ice ball in my drink, but it filled so much of my glass, I realized my drink was minuscule. It left me sober enough to order a glass of an excellent Sauvignon Blanc to accompany dinner.

It’s always wonderful to revisit an old love and discover that all the reasons you fell for them are still there.

Maggiano’s Little Italy
21090 St. Andrews Blvd., Boca Raton
561-361-8244
maggianos.com