Oh, Portland. The Rose City is rehabilitating its bad reputation — deserved or not — and hoping gay travelers will give it another chance.
Nestled along the banks of the Columbia River, Portland is the ideal starting point for an adventure into the Pacific Northwest. It’s a city surrounded by snow-capped mountains in a valley filled with beautiful farms and forests full of Douglas fir trees.
Oregon’s largest city is home to a sizable LGBTQ population. A 2019 survey conducted by the U.S. Census Bureau found Portland to have the second-highest population of same-sex couples in the United States (2.6%) behind San Francisco (2.8%).
“What shapes Portland’s gay culture is our extremely liberal constitution of the state,” said Steven Lien, who owns UnderU4Men, an underwear store in downtown’s west end.
That culture consists of strip clubs, marijuana dispensaries and nude beaches. Portland’s famed weirdness, however, recently reached a tipping point with the decriminalization of small amounts of illicit drugs that resulted in mentally unstable people roaming the streets and openly using the harmful substances.
“Our experiment went awry, but we fixed it,” said Lien, whose been in business for 18 years and hosts a gay travel center on the second floor of his store.
Earlier this year, state legislators re-criminalized hard drugs such as fentanyl, heroin and methamphetamine. Oregon Gov. Tina Kotek, the nation’s first lesbian governor, has stepped up efforts to mitigate the homeless crisis, which has plagued Portland’s urban core for years.
New social services programs, hampered by the COVID-19 pandemic, are starting to take effect. Police bicycle patrols have become a frequent sight in Old Town / Chinatown — where several gay nightclubs are located.
One of those clubs is Darcelle XV Showplace, named for the late tough talking female impersonator, who passed away last year at the age of 92, after claiming the crown as the world’s oldest working drag queen.
It’s a must-visit spot, said BinKyee Bellflower, one of the showplace’s many talented performers.
“It’s not just a show, it’s a piece of LGBTQ history, showcasing the community’s resilience and creativity,” said Bellflower. “Experiencing a show at Darcelle’s is not just entertainment; it’s a testament to the city’s commitment to diversity and acceptance.”
Protections and equal rights for LGBTQ people have long been in place in Portland, and those freedoms have eroded the need for a centralized “gay ghetto.”
“There truly is a gayborhood in every part of our city,” said Lien.
Here are some other things to consider when visiting Portland:
The Weather
It rains a lot in Portland. Just know that coming in and bring a raincoat. The summer months are usually dry and filled with long sunny days that in recent years have experienced temperatures above 100 degrees. Wintery conditions arrive in November and last through March, with at least a couple snow and ice events. Layers and beanies are essential clothing.
The Food
Despite taking a hit from the pandemic, Portland’s food scene is still top-notch. From the southern cooking of Screen Door to the conveyor belt sushi rolls of Hana, there are plenty of options to choose from, and food cart pods are scattered across the city. The biggest buzz is coming out of Chef Gregory Gourdet’s Kann PDX, which offers Haitian inspired cuisine. The upscale restaurant, located in the industrial central Eastside district, is a hard reservation to get, so book early! For the ultimate woke grocery store experience, pop into one of the dozen New Seasons Markets and remember to bring your own bags!
Getting Around
Portland has a world-class light rail, street car and bus system. The Max Red Line is easily accessible from the airport and will take you right into downtown. Definitely rent a car if you’re going to explore the mountains or coastal areas. Amtrak runs several routes out of Union Station, including the spectacular Empire Builder to Chicago. There’s an aerial tram that runs from the southwestern waterfront area up to Oregon Health & Science University, Shriners and Veterans Administration hospitals. The ride hovers over Interstate 5 and provides fantastic city views. Bicycle and scooter rentals are readily available in most parts of the city. Portland is very bicycle friendly with dedicated lanes and scenic routes.
The Neighborhoods
While downtown’s struggles have captured much of the media’s attention, Portland is truly a collection of unique and vibrant neighborhoods. Eastmoreland is affluent with beautiful houses and home to Reed College and the Rhododendron Garden. The Alberta District is up and coming with a youthful vibe, cool shops and restaurants and nods to Portland’s often overlooked Black culture. The Pearl has Powell’s Bookstore, Deschutes Brewery, and all the yuppies one could ask for, while over on Mississippi Avenue is the Q Center, where one can find resources and information for various LGBTQ issues.
Attractions
Washington Park is the No. 1 spot. It’s a huge park with hiking trails that wind through towering Redwoods and leafy forests. It’s also where you’ll find the International Rose Test Garden, that if you time it right and catch them blooming is a fantastic experience for the senses. Washington Park is also home to the Oregon Zoo, Japanese Gardens, Holocaust Memorial and Vietnam Veterans Memorial. Multnomah Falls is a 30-minute car ride east into the gorge and worth every minute. Reservations are required in the summer, with tours departing daily from Portland. Staying in the gorge, Rooster Rock is a perfect place to frolic in nature with your clothes off.
Nightlife
Once upon a time, Portland had an area of bars and clubs known as the Pink Triangle, or Vaseline Alley, depending on who you talk to. Now just Scandals remains on the old SW Stark Street that has been renamed after slain gay rights leader Harvey Milk. Old Town/Chinatown now has the greatest density of queer clubs with Darcelle XV Showplace, neighboring CC Slaughters, strip clubs Stag and Silverado and newly opened Badlands. Lesbians can find comfort at Sports Bra on NE Broadway, while the leather community gravitates further north at the Eagle. Deeper east is Hawks PDX, a private sex club open to all genders, with nights designated for bisexuals and trans people.
