We all know the Florida we’ve seen on TV and in the movies.
From Tampa to Orlando to Fort Lauderdale, Miami to Key West, it’s non-stop partying. Everything’s fabulous: drag queens rolling around in the streets, glitter falling from the ceiling, disco balls spinning, strobe lights flashing, “Yaaaaasss Queeeeeeen!” It’s exhausting. Next time you plan a trip to Florida (or if you live in Florida and you find yourself running ragged), add a couple of extra days to your trip and schedule a few days at the Parkway Motel & Marina on Chokoloskee Island to decompress.
Choca-what, you ask? It’s in the middle of nowhere, darlings. And that’s just the point!
Chokoloskee Island native, Aaron Tabor, with husband and business partner David Ardelean (a partner in DrYnk), went back home to visit Aaron’s family and discovered that the local motel and marina, dripping in mid-century charm, was for sale. Being the entrepreneurial types they are, they thought why not make this a little gay getaway? So, they bought it. While they were at it, they also bought the HavAnnA Café, the best restaurant in town. And how are the locals taking it in this deep red part of the state? Just fine because they love “the boys” as they refer to David and Aaron. It helps that Aaron’s a hometown boy, and the money it brings into town doesn’t hurt either. Oh, there are a few locals that make sure you see their Trump signs, but that’s about as far as it goes.
Built in 1956 and originally owned by the Smallwood Family, Parkway Village was Chokoloskee's first fishing camp with direct access to gulf channels, and mangrove islands just a few hundred yards away. Surrounded by millions of miles of wilderness with Everglades National Park to the east-southeast, and 10,000 Islands National Wildlife Refuge to the north-northwest. To get there from Fort Lauderdale or Miami, you head west on I-75, aka Alligator Alley, for about an hour and a half. Just before getting to the West Coast of Florida, you hang a left and drive about another half hour until you can’t go any farther. It’s like a mirror image of Florida on either coast. It’s about as rural as you can get, although there have been some recent condominium developments as folks are beginning to discover the easy access to the Gulf of Mexico's glorious sunsets and reasonable real estate prices.
The Parkway Motel and Marina is located at the end of Highway 29 in southwest Florida's unspoiled coastal estuary on the Ancient Calusa Indian Barrier Island named Chokoloskee. Myriad wildlife brings nature enthusiasts from all over the world to this UNESCO World Heritage Site.
The Parkway Motel offers clean comfortable standard rooms and kitchenette suites. This historic 1950s motel gives you a charming and laid-back Caribbean flair. Standard rooms offer one queen and one full bed, a microwave, mini-fridge, and can comfortably sleep up to four. The kitchenette rooms offer a bit more space; a small kitchen, along with cooking and eating utensils for meal prep, and can sleep up to four.
A variety of trailers and a cottage are available as accommodation, all air-conditioned. Two of the “modular homes” include a two bed/one bath with a junior kitchen, pull-out sofa sleeper, BBQ grill, and a screened-in patio, a third is a two bed/two bath with central air, pull out sofa, full-sized kitchen, and a washer/dryer. All three sleep six comfortably. There’s also a three bed/two bath double-wide, with a king in the main bedroom, and a futon in the third bedroom. There’s a dining area for when you’re feeling fancy, covered parking, and a fire pit in the yard. It also sleeps six comfortably.
To get the true backwoods feel rent one of the original homes of the area. Originally owned by the Smallwoods, the historic cottage overlooks the marina. It’s a spacious 1,800 square foot, two bedroom/two bath home with a family-sized kitchen and dinette area, a family room with a pull-out sofa sleeper, an en suite main bedroom with a king-sized bed, and twin beds in the second bedroom. It comfortably sleeps six. You can watch the gorgeous sunsets safe from the mosquitos from the screened-in patio which overlooks the marina basin.
If you’ve got a boat, avoid the traffic, and sail your way to Parkway Marina. It has the closest access to the Gulf and the Everglades National Park in the area. The boat docks are available for rent and can manage most boats. Its full-service marina and tackle shop has everything you’ll need for an enjoyable day of fishing, including an incredible historic boat lift.
What is there to do? Not much. And that’s the point. Rent a boat and tour the mangrove jungles or take an airboat tour of the Everglades. Visit one of the quaint little museums, such as The Smallwood Store, or one of the five Collier County museums. Step back in time and have a cocktail at the historic Rod & Gun Club (skip the food). Take a side trip to Everglades City. Be sure to rent a boat and head out to the Gulf to watch the sunset. You might even see some dolphins playing in the wake of your boat as I did. Head over to the Fakahatchee Strand Preserve and walk along the miles of boardwalks through Big Cypress Bend State Park, where you can see nature – at a safe distance. We spotted a couple of alligators. At night, coat yourself with bug spray, put on your long pants and long-sleeved shirts, and sit out and watch the stars.
Dining options in Chokoloskee are limited. There’s HavAnnA Café, started in 2003 by Carlos and Dulce Valdez. Carlos worked his kitchen magic while Dulce brought her crowd-pleasing expertise, creating the brand and making it the go-to spot for the best Cuban cuisine in Collier County. Aaron and David are carrying on traditions in the restaurant while making the cuisine even more delightful. They’ve added new, mouthwatering “cracker cuisine” to the menu and expanded it with serene outdoor garden seating, Aaron’s contemporary sculptures, a few live chickens, and a selection of beers and wines. They've amped up the fun with lively music and weekly activities, making life on Chokoloskee Island even more enjoyable. Occasionally, they’ll bring in drag queens from Fort Lauderdale, Tampa, Orlando, or Miami for weekend shows. We found this place so charming and reasonably priced that we dined there for breakfast and dinner, and were so full after breakfast, that lunch wasn’t required. It’s a favorite for visitors and locals alike, who seem to have accepted “the boys” as part of the Chokoloskee community. You can also drive to nearby Everglades City to check out a variety of restaurants.
After a few days of rest and relaxation at The Parkway Motel and Marina, you’ll be ready to return home, refreshed from your vacation and thinking about when you can return for some of the queer Florida cracker hospitality.
Parkway Motel & Marina Chokoloskee Island
1180 Chokoloskee Drive, Chokoloskee
239-695-3261
parkwaymotelmarina.com
